I arrived back after a week of night shift to catch up with D at the Tent & Breakfast lodge. The Water Taxi trip was with Mr Perfecto and Lance. Mr Perfecto is a Beagle/Shepherd Cross who is in control of the boat. He’s quite happy to climb up onto the side deck walk forward and rest on the bow of the open deck Taxi or plump himself against your legs for support while you are bracing yourself for the chop and small waves of the Bay.
Tent & Breakfast is in an ideal location on the beach backing into a valley. Mine hosts Mary Jane & Tony are so laid back that I felt I should be helping with the dishes as the family atmosphere was so inviting. D had spent a week here enjoying herself involved in Silk Painting, hiking, kayaking the Herring Islands on Kasitsna Bay. Here we had the choices of kayaking, hiking, cycling or just straight out lazing. Our tent on its timber deck was the furtherest up the Valley and being a warm blooded creature I soon learnt to wear my ‘long johns’ to bed for warmth – I’m sure its is me, as the rest of the guests found the weather warm!
I managed a quick kayak across the bay and back after the bike ride. (D had already managed to kayak here while I was in BDA) Tony made sure that we had the directions for a ‘less’ hilly cycle into Seldovia. After the return trip I did wonder how big those other hills were! The ride was scenic to say the least and the final downhill run into Seldovia was a welcome relief. With propensity to be oblivious to surroundings its no wonder that there is now a bend on the road know as Yelling Corner. I’d left D behind by 2 bends and she was a touch hoarse in the voice trying to point out the beautiful view that she wanted to photo with me in it, do you understand the naming of the corner? So with guilt and shame I cycle onwards…
Seldovia is about 200-300 people with a fishing port and ‘mad-cycling’ tourists in season. The quaintness of the boardwalks and food made the effort worthwhile. Funny that we had a top time here and I can only manage a few words.
Tuesday and it’s off back up Kachemak Bay to Glacier Spit by water taxi for our kayaking/camp trip. We had to be dropped off about 500m down the coast from the Yurt as the low tide had exposed the rocky section of the beach. So its kayaks on the beach, 8 dry bags unloaded and we are on our own. Well so I thought; there’s two kayaks pulled up the beach between us and the Yurt – no one in sight though. My 1st thought is to dump the dry bags into the kayak cockpit and float along the beach. Bad idea as this made the kayak top heavy and with the waves washing in, the kayaks tried very hard to flip! So its pack the dry bags and paddle along the beach – only then it’s a case of landing our skin kayaks onto mussel encrusted rocks. We survived and found out that we can carry a ½ loaded kayak over rocks past Starfish, through slippery kelp and survive without arguing. Then we did the casual walk back to get the last of the gear and move into the Yurt.
Yurt living is neat. There’s a pot belly stove for warmth, bed & mattress x3 the rest of the
accommodations are ours to supply. The wood is Spruce which is a fast high heat burning wood. The ablutions is an open-air long drop (which the owners are going to enclose), there’s Spruce forest behind us and tall grass between us and the beach. Privacy and seclusion is ours.
Our only concern is BEARS! Well with a pair of kayaks and a flimsy tent down the along the beach; plus the lady in a pup tent just in front of us on the beach we relaxed.
I arrived back after a week of night shift to catch up with D at the Tent & Breakfast lodge. The Water Taxi trip was with Mr Perfecto and Lance. Mr Perfecto is a Beagle/Shepherd Cross who is in control of the boat. He’s quite happy to climb up onto the side deck walk forward and rest on the bow of the open deck Taxi or plump himself against your legs for support while you are bracing yourself for the chop and small
waves of the Bay.
Tent & Breakfast is in an ideal location on the beach backing into a valley. Mine hosts Mary Jane & Tony are so laid back that I felt I should be helping with the dishes as the family atmosphere was so inviting. D had spent a week here enjoying herself involved in Silk Painting, hiking, kayaking the Herring Islands on Kasitsna Bay. Here we had the choices of kayaking, hiking, cycling or just straight out lazing. Our tent on its timber
deck was the furtherest up the Valley and being a warm blooded creature I soon learnt to wear my ‘long johns’ to bed for warmth – I’m sure its is me, as the rest of the guests found the weather warm!
I managed a quick kayak across the bay and back after the bike ride. (D had already managed to kayak here while I was in BDA) Tony made sure that we had the directions for a ‘less’ hilly cycle into Seldovia. After the return trip I did wonder how big those other hills were! The ride was scenic to say the least and the final downhill run into Seldovia was a welcome relief. With propensity to be oblivious to surroundings its no wonder that there is now a bend on the road know as Yelling Corner. I’d left D behind by 2 bends and she was a touch hoarse in the voice trying to point out the beautiful view that she wanted to photo with me in it, do you understand the naming of the corner? So with guilt and shame I cycle onwards…
Seldovia is about 200-300 people with a fishing port and ‘mad-cycling’ tourists in season. The quaintness of the boardwalks and food made the effort worthwhile. Funny that we had a top time here and I can only manage a few words.
note:
It is summer here and there is only about 2 hours of darkness at night. Darkness meaning you will need to use the ‘flash’ on your camera dark! At 11 p.m. it was as light as 7 p.m. mid-summer in Oz! We resorted to eye patches for sleep on occasion!!!
Wednesday I’ve decided that we’re going to do the 7.3 km hike up and onto Grewingk Glacier in cold damp dank drizzling “gosh this is terrible eather to be out in” rain. We’re off through the Spruce forest and onto the glacial moraine onward to the creek/river running from Grewingk lake. Across the suspension tram (hand over hand on the rope to pull across) and up the side of the Valley. Now it starts to get interesting! We’re shoulder deep in very wet grasses, at times it’s a case of presuming the track is in front of me as I can’t see it. D is swimming behind me, ringing our BEAR BELL hello little bears, its friendly peoples from downunder here please go away. By the time we’ve gone up the Valley wall and down, there’s a touch of thigh and calf pain in our legs, anyway, away and across the moraine again and finally we’re at the glacial lake by 2 pm. The sign says 2.8 km to go to the actual GLACIER! After a bit of thinking and map checking we’ve come to realise that the casual 7.3 km hike is one-way, rethink about time etc, OK we’re actually not that comfortable out here. We’ve seen BEAR SCAT and tracks everywhere but basically only heard silence! We turned tail and fled!
Just didn’t feel right, especially as we saw more and more scat on the way back. Yurt enclosed safety and a bottle of wine later we’re fine, breathing normally, pulse rate down, colour returning – OK it’s an exaggeration! Next day we’re planning paddling to China Poot Cove and Yurt, so I’ve packed the dry bags before we lay down to sleep.
Somewhere about midnight – half past something in the early morning, there’s a noise and mighty thump against the Yurt wall. Well I can assure you D was awake and I managed to release my grip from the ceiling reluctantly. D’s calmly asking “where are the flares?” I’ve packed them and don’t know where, not a good move boyo! A flaming great Black Bear wanted to come and visit us. After thinking about drinking more Red Wine and not really sleeping, it was soon officially daylight; I ventured out to see reasonable sized claw marks in the wall of the Yurt. It didn’t take us long to pack, launch and paddle away.
Who & Where if you go there:
Mako Water Taxi: best service & people to get you anywhere on Kachemak Bay! (Ask for Sarah)
Across the Bay Tent & Breakfast: Mary Jane & Tony have got it all! The bicycles are geared and in great nick!
Nardelli’s Espresso Bar: opened four years ago, serves this small, roadless Halibut Cove community via a floating dock and cabin. A welcome sign marked “Espresso” rests in a skiff afloat near Nardelli’s coffee shop cabin, inviting boating and kayaking assersby to drop in for a snack and a chat. What’s more, patrons need not leave their boats, thanks to Nardelli’s inventive “float-side” service.
Kachemak Bay Alaska Yurt Rentals: different, yes, but ideal for self-sufficient camping & privacy. Loved the concept of being in
wild cold remote Alaska but not stuck in a damp small tent!