
Tuesday: And all mental Hell breaks loose! Everything was perfect for the start
of the day however someone had a GPS unit logged for Australian mapping (well
that's my excuse). We left Hells Bay Chickee and aiming for the entrance to East
River! 2 hours later and North is which way - that's how confused I am - no sense
of direction - been down and up every creek within 500m of the GPS
coordinate**. Mentally I'm covered in sweat, I've wasted 2 hours and we have
about 20 km to paddle barely covered 2 km by this stage!
OK, found the entrance to Normans River - we can do this!
Now we are cruising. Down the river, hook around behind the islets and up Joe
River! It was a bit of a push across the south end of White Water Bay into the
wind but expected. We hooked up under a fallen tree for a snack break and eased
onwards to sheltered waters to Sth Joe River Chickee.
Another magic night & idyllic setting; so far we've seen two canoeists afar and
heard a couple of stink-boats - it is just us out here enjoying serenity and silence!
** if you looked at where I think I got us lost - this is mangrove creek country where
entrances get overgrown within a season... So what looks like an open channel is now
hidden! Word has it that kayakers the next day had trouble finding the same river mouth.
Fraught with weighty bags
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Wednesday: After a night of fish jumping, a dawn with Dolphins
hunting, mirrored waters reflecting clouds it's off to Oyster Bay.
Joe River is quite wide and protected from the prevailing winds - the dip
and drip of our blades were the only 'man made' sounds disturbing the
quiet of the Everglades.
Lunch at a deserted Joe River Chickee after we had passed a kayak &
canoe unit heading towards Sth Joe - looks like we're swapping camp sites
for the night.
No rush but aware that it is well after 9 before we set out, we are camped
and set-up by 4pm. After the long run yesterday, this one seemed to be
near the same but that was the early kayak fatigue talking - we improve
pretty rapidly after this the 3rd day.
So now we are looking at the rest of the trip. The next leg is about 24km
give or take a few km's. Early start is planned and the wine rations are now
being reduced ( I knew that I'd packed too little!). We've had a freezing
cold wash on the Chickee deck and after 3 days the sense of
'smell-me-I-don't-stink' was welcomed! Funny we're on holiday and it's
early to bed and faster to sleep...
'kayak fatigue' - we basically had one paddle since August 07 and here it is
February 08 - not bad for a couple on the wrong side of 21... "Leg 1" a tortuous trail
(16km) "Leg 2" across White Water Bay (24km) "Leg 3" 16km = 50km with no
training!
Thursday: Our early start is 8am and its off to find Shark River... Here is
where I actually started to think about things... oops I forgot that I'd a copy
chart of White Water Bay for D - Actually she was quite pleased to see where
she was going, now that she could...
This was easy - hook around behind dead tree islet and into Shark River (we
expected an incoming tide of about 2knts) with no breeze, glass water, scenic
views to be glad you are alive for and barely 0.6knot incoming tide.
Oh how things were to change.
We hit the mouth and what is called Florida Bay to be greeted, no let me say
WELCOMED by a head-on 10knot breeze. Hugging the coast as close as we
can, it is still a bit of a slog to NW Cape.
Finally we get there and no hesitation, we are camping on the leeward side! It
is after the tent is set up that we have a look around the point and the wind and
sandblasting says good decision.
Sunset and the wind drops, our idyllic surrounds return...
continued
Friday: just a quick run to East Cape of 16km and that's all for the day.
Again an early start, we're off by 7:30 and still next to no-one out here - what is wrong
with people - this is going to be put up there with "best spots to kayak" on our list...
Basically this is a straight 16km run across a bay. We land and have camp set by 2pm.
By 2:15pm we're asking for just a little bit of the breeze from yesterday - 'stinking hot
and no air' - can't have everything as we know & still on wine rations...
A beautiful evening and dawn as we watch the bird-life, waters and setting & rising sun.
Around the point of NW & East Cape and the extent of devastation this coast suffered
from Hurricane Katrina is still evident. The coastal mangrove line has been stripped
of life. Where we beach for lunch the dead stand of Mangroves extends 100m inland
before the vegetation shows signs of life. Stark, dead but beautiful in its severity.
Saturday: should be called SAD-DAY as this is the closing run to a magic trip. Paddling into
the wind for this final leg, though victorious in completion and uplifting in achievement,
there's a sense of 'no more' as we finish our 95km cob-web clearing Everglade run...
And so, we beached, unloaded set-up the tent one last time, regalled the
Flamingoes with the highlights of our adventure, and left for home the next day...
We did have 'grins from ear to ear' as we left...
Knock knock who's there? Lo and behold we caught up with Lou, our guide on
our Fiji trip, as we checked in for the flight home... makes it all worth it eh?